The choga, a long-sleeved outer garment, has a rich history interwoven with the sartorial traditions of India and Central Asia. With its origins in Turkish and Persian attire, this stately and dignified silhouette became a prominent feature in the wardrobes of Indian royalty and aristocracy, particularly during the Mughal era and the 19th century.

Boy's coat (choga) of red wool with silver and silver-gilt wrapped thread couched in small spirals (tilla-work) forming floral patterns; Kashmir, 1851
Image courtesy – Victoria and Albert Museum

The Evolution of the Choga

The choga was traditionally worn over lighter garments such as the angarkha, jama, or kurta, creating an elegant, layered effect that was both practical and fashionable. During the colder months, woollen chogas, particularly those made from Kashmir’s renowned hand-spun wool, provided warmth and comfort. In many cases, these chogas were paired with exquisite Kashmiri shawls, further emphasizing their regal appeal.

In Mughal times, the term 'chogha' referred to a knee- or hip-length coat, open down the front and fastened with cloth-cased buttons and loops. As an upper garment, it bore strong resemblances to the angarkha but was often grander in design and reserved for nobility. The garment was not limited to India alone—it found its place in various regions including Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, Iran, Tajikistan, Afghanistan, and Pakistan, where it was worn by the Kho people.

Robe; Costume, turquoise wool gold, couched, Sind
Image courtesy – Victoria and Albert Museum

Choga in Indian Tradition

In India, the choga was particularly popular in Rajasthan, Jammu and Kashmir, and Himachal Pradesh, regions known for their aristocratic dress codes. The affluent classes preferred chogas made of silk or wool, adorned with exquisite embroidery and embellishments. Rajasthani men, who had an extensive collection of upper garments, considered the choga a symbol of opulence, often reserving it for special occasions.

Banaras and Dhaka, known for their textile excellence, became centers for the production of intricately designed chogas. These garments featured motifs inspired by hunting scenes, birds, and animals, carefully woven onto the fabric. 

The heavy gold embroidery and couching on this man's woollen robe from northern India is typical of the work done in the Panjab during the 19th century.
Image courtesy – Victoria and Albert Museum

Varieties of Choga

The choga evolved into various styles depending on the season and region:

• Winter Chogas: Made from wool and pashmina, these were often lined with thick white cloth on the interior and striped silk on the exterior. Embroidery in silken threads and decorative elements like badla and sitara were commonly used in 19th-century Rajasthan and Punjab.

• Summer Chogas: Made from muslin, often woven in the Jamdani style, these chogas were lightweight and adorned with delicate booti embroidery.

• Designer and Patterned Chogas: Known as Parcha chogas, these followed specific patterns and styles, making them trendsetting garments of their time.

Robe (choga), white embroidered with flowers, Kashmir, c.1855
Image courtesy – Victoria and Albert Museum

Influence on Modern Fashion

While some scholars attribute the introduction of the choga to India to the 16th-century reign of Babur, others believe it had existed in regions like Rajasthan and Gujarat long before that period. The need for a protective outer garment in harsh climates likely contributed to its presence in indigenous Indian fashion.

Although the choga is no longer a common garment in contemporary Indian fashion, its influence can be seen in the modern-day sherwani. The structured yet flowing silhouette of the sherwani draws from the choga’s design, ensuring that its legacy endures in Indian ceremonial attire.

Red satin man's shirt with choga patterned armhole and kalis, braid trim of gold-wrapped thread on a green silk ground around the neck and front opening, Lahore
Image courtesy – Victoria and Albert Museum

Designer Choga

Over the decades, many designers have adapted and reinvented their own versions of traditional silhouettes and patterns. The choga, similarly, has evolved and adapted to the female clientele with various variations, designs, and patterns under this subcategory. Modern designer chogas blend historical craftsmanship with contemporary aesthetics, making them popular choices for festive, bridal, and couture wear. The use of luxurious fabrics, intricate embroideries, and innovative cuts has allowed the choga to retain its regal essence while appealing to modern sensibilities.

A Garment of Legacy and Luxury

The choga remains a testament to the rich textile and embroidery traditions of India. Whether adorned with intricate threadwork, woven from luxurious pashmina, or embroidered with regal motifs, this garment symbolizes grandeur and heritage. Today, while it is mostly found in museums or vintage collections, its timeless elegance continues to inspire designers who seek to revive India’s royal past through contemporary fashion.

Choga (man’s coat), wool and metal wrapped threads, double interlock twill tapestry weave, Kashmir c.1803 – 1856
Image courtesy – Metropolitan Museum of Art