The Anarkali suit, a quintessential emblem of Indian fashion, carries a legacy steeped in the opulence of the Mughal era. Distinguished by its voluminous ghera (flare) and intricate construction, the Anarkali was not merely a garment but a celebration of artistry, grace, and movement. Designed to accentuate the fluidity of motion, it was favored by courtesans and dancers, particularly those performing in royal courts. The sweeping layers and circular flare, when paired with churidaar pants and jingling ghungroos, created a mesmerizing visual symphony that left audiences spellbound.
Pakeezah, 1961
The name Anarkali itself is steeped in legend, believed to be a tribute to the courtesan Anarkali, whose tragic love story is etched on the walls of Mughal history. Under Emperor Akbar's court, Anarkali captured the heart of Prince Salim, later known as Jahangir. Their forbidden romance is said to have culminated in Anarkali's untimely death, reportedly by immurement within the walls of Lahore Fort—a punishment for her illicit affair with the prince. The term Anarkali, meaning "pomegranate bud," poetically reflects the silhouette’s delicate and captivating flow, akin to the blossoming of a pomegranate flower.
Mughal-e-azam, 1960
Historically, the Anarkali was closely associated with courtesans and dancers, particularly those performing Kathak. Even today, Kathak dancers embrace this silhouette, celebrating its fluidity and grace. However, the journey of the Anarkali was not without its challenges. During British colonial rule, the garment fell out of favor as courtesans and dancers were vilified, a consequence of British-imposed moral ideologies. Anarkalis were dismissed by society as symbols of decadence and immorality.
Umrao Jaan, 1981
It was only in the post-colonial era that the Anarkali regained its rightful place in Indian fashion, emerging as a celebrated piece of ethnic wear. Today, it epitomizes elegance and heritage, blending traditional craftsmanship with modern sensibilities.
Design and Construction
The hallmark of an Anarkali lies in its kalis (panels) that give the garment its characteristic flare. The number of kalis can range from a modest 8 to an opulent 108, depending on the desired volume and fabric. While some designs feature kalis cascading from the shoulders, others incorporate a fitted yoke that extends to the waist, with the flare beginning thereafter.
Pakeezah, 1961
The silhouette lends itself beautifully to rich, luxurious fabrics such as brocade, silk, velvet, and chanderi. These are often adorned with intricate embroidery techniques like zardozi, aari, gota patti, and mukaish, further elevating the garment’s grandeur. Modern adaptations also explore lighter fabrics like georgette and chiffon for a more contemporary appeal.
Cultural Relevance and Modern Appeal
Beyond its historical significance, the Anarkali remains deeply ingrained in contemporary Indian fashion. It is celebrated for its versatility, seamlessly transitioning from grand wedding ensembles to semi-formal attire for festive occasions. Bollywood has played a pivotal role in popularizing the Anarkali over the decades, with iconic films like Mughal-e-Azam and Umrao Jaan showcasing its timeless beauty.
Mughal-e-azam, 1960
Symbolism and Legacy
The Anarkali embodies a delicate balance between heritage and timeless beauty. Its enduring legacy is a testament to its versatility, making it a staple in Indian ethnic wear. Whether as an opulent wedding ensemble or a refined everyday garment, the Anarkali continues to captivate with its storied past and exquisite craftsmanship.
Devdas, 2002