Zardozi embroidery is a craft that has adorned Indian heritage since ancient times. Its origins trace back to the Rig Vedic era, where it was celebrated as an art form of luxury and grandeur. The term "Zardozi" comes from two Urdu words: ‘zar’, meaning gold, and ‘doz’, meaning embroidery or sewing. True to its name, Zardozi involves intricate hand embroidery with metallic threads, particularly gold and silver, and is often complemented by pearls, precious stones, sequins, and beads.
This meticulous craft was historically associated with royalty, gracing the robes of kings, queens, and noblemen. It was also used to embellish tent walls, tapestries, ceremonial animal trappings, and other royal artifacts. The treasure troves of Emperor Akbar, for instance, contained numerous garments adorned with this opulent embroidery. Over time, Zardozi has evolved into a versatile art form, celebrated for its grandeur and timeless elegance.
Handcrafted zardozi tapestry , 1855
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Zardozi embellished Huqqa Mat, Chennai
Image courtesy –Victoria and Albert Museum
A Journey Through History
India has a long tradition of needlework and embroidery, with historical evidence pointing to its existence as far back as the Indus Valley Civilization (2300–1500 BCE). Excavations at Mohenjo-Daro revealed bronze needles and figurines dressed in embroidered attire, providing early proof of India’s rich textile heritage.
The Rig Veda mentions terms like Atka (embroidered garment) and Drapi (sewn cloth), underscoring the use of gold-threaded fabrics, referred to as "cloth of gold." The Mahabharata and Ramayana also contain references to garments embroidered with gold threads. In the Mahabharata, for instance, Yudhishthira was gifted gold-embroidered garments by the King of Kambuja. Similarly, Jain literature from the 6th century CE, such as the Acharanga Sutra, highlights gold-embroidered materials, albeit advising monks to avoid such opulent fabrics.
Pallu of a saree made of woven gold thread, with a very deep border embellished with embroidery in gold-wrapped thread, gold sequins, metal spangles and pieces of beetle wing; Ahemdabad, 1855
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During the Mughal era, Zardozi reached unparalleled heights. The Mughals were avid patrons of art and craftsmanship, and Zardozi became a hallmark of their sophisticated aesthetic. Floral and geometric motifs, often inspired by court paintings, were intricately embroidered using gold, silver, and colored threads. Pearls and gemstones were added to enhance the magnificence of garments. Mughal workshops, known as karkhanas, developed intricate designs that combined Persian influences with Indian artistry, creating patterns that continue to inspire artisans today.
Rare and precious zardozi embellished laces from Lucknow, now part of a private collection
Image courtesy – Michael Backman Ltd
Craftsmanship and Techniques
Zardozi embroidery is a labor-intensive craft that demands exceptional skill and precision. It is traditionally done on rich fabrics like silk, velvet, and satin, which provide a sturdy base for the intricate designs. Georgette is sometimes used for lighter garments. The embroidery gives patterns a three-dimensional effect by incorporating metallic threads, stones, and spangles.
A pair of leather gloves gilded with zardozi embroidery at the cuffs for a child; France, 1660
Image courtesy – Victoria and Albert Museum
The motifs used in Zardozi are often inspired by nature, featuring flowers, leaves, trees, birds, and animals. Persian art also contributes abstract and geometric designs. Popular motifs include the mango (Keri), peacock, and tessellating patterns like the Zhumar. Designs are categorized into:
- Border designs (Kataoki Bel): Intricate patterns for edges.
- Central designs (Thali Numa): Elaborate focal points.
- Geometrical patterns (Jali Numa): Symmetrical designs.
- Filler designs (Bharat): Decorative elements to complete patterns.
A piece of textile with the surface covered with couched embroidery in flattened gold wire and gold-wrapped thread, and seed pearls. The design consists of large paisley bootas with bands of scrolling flowers above; Chennai 1855
Artisans use a variety of threads, each with specific characteristics:
- Gijai: Thin, stiff wire for detailed patterns.
- Sitara: Star-shaped metal pieces for floral elements.
- Kalabattu: Braided gold threads; thicker for borders and thinner for tassels.
- Tikora: Spirally twisted gold threads for intricate designs.
- Kora: Matte metallic threads.
- Chikna: Lustrous metallic threads for a shiny finish.
Bundle of flattened and folded, crimped gold wire along with other embroidery materials
Image courtesy – Victoria and Albert Museum
The embroidery techniques vary widely and include:
- Salma-Sitara: Combines metallic threads with sequins.
- Badla: Flat metallic strips woven into designs.
- Mina Work: Resembles enamel jewelry with colorful designs.
- Katori: Dome-shaped embellishments for a three-dimensional effect.
- Beadwork: Incorporates glass or seed beads.
- Kinari Work: Decorative edges often used on purses and tassels.
- Beetlewings: Used to embellish clothing as well as home furnishings with the iridescent wings also called elytra.
Women’s pumps from the late 1700s created from gold threads, pearls, sequins and beetle wing
Image courtesy – Bata Museum
Evolution of Materials
In its earliest form, Zardozi was crafted using pure gold and silver threads, along with pearls and gemstones. These materials made the embroidery extremely luxurious and accessible only to the elite. Over time, the use of gold and silver threads was replaced by more affordable materials such as copper or brass wires, often electroplated with gold or silver.
Today, Zardozi is classified into three types based on the materials used:
- Real Zardozi: Made with pure gold and silver threads, this remains a symbol of luxury and is typically crafted on a made-to-order basis.
- Imitation Zardozi: Uses silver-plated copper wires as a cost-effective alternative.
- Synthetic Zardozi: Employs metallic-colored threads and synthetic embellishments for affordability.
Densely embroidered saddle cloth featuring tigers, deer, and an elephant. Raised embroidery of this type uses a technique referred to as vasli or dhok, in which metal-wrapped thread (zari) is couched over pasteboard
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A Mythical Origin
A fascinating legend surrounds the origin of Zardozi. It is said that a king once suffered from an unbearable headache caused by a mosquito lodged in his head. After all remedies failed, the royal physician dreamed of a divine solution: to strike the king’s head with a shoe. The king ordered a shoe embroidered with gold and silver threads for the task. The mosquito was killed, and the headache cured. The king, enchanted by the beauty of the embroidery, rewarded the artisans, establishing them as Zardoz (masters of Zardozi).
A cap (headgear) dating back to 1855 embroidered all over with metal embellishments in floral patterns
Image Courtesy – Victoria and Albert Museum
The Role of Zardozi in Modern Fashion
While Zardozi was once exclusive to royalty, it has become a popular choice for modern fashion. Bridal lehengas, sarees, sherwanis, and dupattas often feature this embroidery, adding a regal touch to special occasions. The craft has also expanded to accessories like purses, footwear, and home décor items such as cushions and wall hangings.
Designers today combine Zardozi with other forms of embroidery, such as Dabka (spring-like metallic thread) and Gota (woven golden borders). This fusion allows for innovative applications while retaining the craft's traditional essence.
A Huqqa pipe cover, made of velvet, embellished with gold-wrapped thread, gold wire, sequins and coloured glass beads, braid and fringes, in a floral latticework; Bharatpur, ca. 1867
Image courtesy – Victoria and Albert Museum
A Timeless Treasure
Zardozi embroidery is more than just an art form; it is a testament to India’s rich cultural history and craftsmanship. From the intricate patterns of Mughal courts to contemporary bridal couture, Zardozi has retained its relevance and charm. Its shimmering threads and intricate designs continue to captivate admirers, making it a cherished part of India’s artistic heritage.
This exquisite embroidery, with its roots in royalty and mythology, serves as a reminder of the timeless beauty that skilled hands can create. Whether adorning a regal saree, a modern clutch, or a luxurious tapestry, Zardozi remains a glittering emblem of India’s artistic brilliance.
