Velvet, a fabric synonymous with luxury and opulence, has a rich history that spans millennia and continents. Known for its lush texture and regal appeal, velvet’s journey through time is a fascinating tale of innovation, artistry, and cultural significance.

The Origins of Velvet: A Far Eastern Legacy

Velvet’s origins are widely debated, but many scholars agree that it first emerged in the Far East, possibly China, as early as the 13th century. The ancient Egyptians, however, had created piled linen textiles around 2000 BC, hinting at precursors to velvet. Archaeological finds, such as the piled carpets from Pazyryk (4th century BC), also reflect techniques reminiscent of velvet production. What is more certain is that there are references to kutuf, which may have been the Arabic term for velvet, in early Arabic literature, notably to its production and use in ancient Syria.

The term “velvet” itself derives from the Italian word velluto, meaning “shaggy,” a nod to its soft and textured surface. By the medieval period, velvet had travelled westward along the legendary Silk Road, becoming a prized fabric in Italy during the Renaissance.

 
The Carpet of Pazyryk, the oldest surviving pile weave structure of the world, about 4000 years ago
Image courtesy - Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg, Russia

Velvet and Royalty: A Match Made in Heaven

Before modern industrial looms, velvet was painstakingly crafted on handlooms, making it an expensive fabric reserved for royalty and the elite. Its ability to absorb richly hued dyes made it particularly attractive to noble families. Historical accounts highlight its use at the courts of rulers such as the Umayyad Caliph Hisham ibn Abd al-Malik and the Mughal emperors of India.

During the Renaissance, velvet adorned the garments of monarchs and religious leaders. It was also used in tapestries, drapery, and upholstery, symbolizing wealth and status. Interestingly, those who could afford velvet but lacked noble lineage were sometimes required to pay special taxes to wear it.

A Jhool (Elephant Cover) from Jodhpur, typically draped under the howdah (elephant seat) placed on an elephant's back. Adorned with exquisite hand embroidery and tasselled fringes.
Image courtesy – Mehrangarh Fort

Velvet Across Cultures and Continents

India: A Mughal Legacy

In India, velvet gained prominence with the arrival of the Mughals. The drawloom, likely introduced in the second millennium, facilitated intricate weaving techniques. Indian velvets were renowned for their exquisite craftsmanship, often featuring metallic threads and elaborate embroidery. Centres like Gujarat and Lahore became hubs for velvet production, creating variations like makhmalaizarbaft (voided velvets) and patani (Ikat velvets).

Europe: The Renaissance Boom

The Italian peninsula excelled in producing patterned velvet textiles from 1400 to 1600. These fabrics, often incorporating family crests or religious motifs, were exported across Europe and the Ottoman Empire. Velvet’s versatility made it a staple in religious vestments, ceremonial attire, and luxurious home furnishings.

 
A Bichhayat (Floor Spread) from Gujrat showcasing Ikat silk-velvet field with woven metal-ground silk borders patterned with cypress-tree motifs in red, yellow, white, and deep blue green. Ikat textiles are the result of a laborious process through which skilled artisans wrap resist-dye yarns in desired patterns before the weaving begins.
Image courtesy – Mehrangarh Fort

The Art and Labor Behind Velvet

Velvet’s creation involves a warp cut-pile weave, traditionally made from silk, cotton, or wool. The process was labour-intensive, requiring mastery and patience. Variations emerged over time, showcasing regional expertise and creativity:

• Plain Velvet: Entirely covered in pile, known as kadife in the Middle East.
• Embossed Velvet: Designs stamped onto the pile, popular in Persia.
• Ikat Velvet: Featuring intricate dyeing techniques, prized for its exclusivity. In Gujarat, Ikat velvets were referred to as patani, a part of the category of velvets called kathivu which was derived from the Arab word for velvets, al-katifa
• Embroidered Velvet: Adorned with gold and silver threads for ceremonial use.
• Voided Velvet: Featuring patterns created by voiding sections of the pile, often paired with metallic embellishments. The voided section generally carried extra weft gold thread twisted over silk or gilded paper known as lamé. Voided velvets were most commonly used during the time of the Mughals.
• Brocade Velvet: Combined with voiding and using the technique of brocading, these velvets used metallic threads, either in the void or in the velvet. This earned them the name of makhmal-e-zarbaft(cloth of gold) in India

A traditional Albanian woman’s robe from the 19^th century (Balkans); Made of red velvet and adorned with gold thread embroidery, the pockets at the waist, decorative buttons on the front and cuffs are wrapped in gold thread embroidery and embellished with coral beads
Image courtesy – National Palace Museum

On special occasions, Mughal palaces and pavilions were adorned with luxurious silk hangings, carpets, and embroidered velvets. For example, on one New Year’s Day, Emperor Jahangir noted visiting his vizier and brother-in-law Asaf Khan, who had carpeted the road leading from the palace with velvets embroidered with gold and brocade. The designs used to be inspired by Iranian textiles, yet ink inscriptions in Gujarati script along the selvages of some of the remaining pieces reveal that they were woven in Gujarat, a region renowned for its production of silks, velvets, and cottons.

 
A silk velvet carpet dating back to the 17^th century
Image courtesy – The Met Museum

Velvets are used for a majority of purposes even amongst garments; these include –

• Surface fabrics of garments: The thickness of the fabric made it ideal for winterwear. Garments such as sherwanis, achkans, atamsukhs, ghughis, angarkhis, farzi, sadri, pyjamas, breeches and evening gowns.
• Lining of garments: Velvet was often used as a lining for other fabrics especially heavily embroidered sherwani and sadri.
• As lace and appliqué work on garments: presence of velvet is in the form of either patches at the shoulders and nape of the neck, or as lace at the inner edges of the torso and cuffs, with additional embroidery work carried out on them.
• Footwear: Velvet was also used to line the juttis(slippers) worn by royalty.

Indian Mojari with red velvet lining and gold embellishments
Image courtesy – Bata Shoe Museum

• Accessories: Purses were a common accessory carried by men and women. Locally known as batua, small coin purses were made of velvet with gilded zari thread embroidery as embellishment. Hats were another accessory that were made of velvet.
• Religious Purposes: Worldwide, velvet was used for various religious purposes:to drape those holding high religious office, as a backdrop for religious depictions, and as covers for religious books.
• Upholstery: From tents to floor spreads to wall hangings, velvets were a preferred choice for their supple feel. Palanquin covers, howdah seats, cradle linings, thalposh (dish covers), parasols, insignia etc. were also decorated with velvet as the fabric of choice.
• Adornment of Animals: The royal animals were as luxuriously decorated as the kings, if not more. Elephants and horses, the more commonly used animals for processions and other regal ceremonies, were decorated with velvet fabric. The elephant trappings and the horse saddle cover and face brace too were made of velvet.
• Arms and armour: Sword covers, gunpowder flasks and small purses that were carried by the royals were also in the formof a velvet covering. Sometimes the base material would be different, for example leather, and that would be lined with velvet on the surface.
• Apart from the aforementioned uses, velvet was also used for luxury items such as chess mats and book covers.

A Chapan/ Khalat Robe of embroidered velvet robe from Uzbekistan. Arabesque patterned embroidery along with Ikat silk lining give it a regal appeal
Image courtesy – National Palace Museum

Velvet Trivia: Lesser-Known Facts

1. A Fabric of Taxes: In medieval Europe, commoners who wore velvet without noble titles had to pay levies.
2. Religious Uses: Velvet was a preferred material for religious garments and accessories, including book covers and altar drapes.
3. Animal Adornment: Royal processions often featured animals adorned in velvet trappings, from elephant saddles to horse bridles.
4. Global Mentions: Ibn Battuta’s 14th-century travels mention velvet-like cotton textiles in Sumatra, reflecting its widespread appeal.

Velvet’s Enduring Legacy

Velvet remains a timeless symbol of elegance, whether as a part of high-fashion collections, historical costumes, or luxurious interiors. Its journey from the Silk Road to the Mughal courts and Renaissance Europe underscores its universal allure.

In the modern era, velvet’s production has diversified, incorporating synthetic fibers for affordability. Yet, its association with grandeur persists, making it a staple in luxury design and heritage crafts.

Kanat (Tent Wall) of Lal Dera dating back to the 17^th century is said to be the only surviving wonder of Mughal tents. The Lal Dera (Red Tent) is richly embroidered in red and indigo (now faded to a turquoise) now in the caretaking of the Mehrangarh Royal Family
Image courtesy – Mehrangarh Fort

Conclusion

Velvet’s story is one of innovation, cultural exchange, and artistic brilliance. From ancient China to modern fashion runways, it has captured hearts and imaginations with its unparalleled beauty. Whether you’re donning a velvet gown or marveling at antique velvet textiles, you’re part of a legacy that celebrates craftsmanship and sophistication. Embrace the luxury of velvet and its storied past—a fabric truly fit for royalty.